Joule Thief LED Flashlight (Free Light)

Judul	:	Joule Thief LED Flashlight (Free Light)
info	:	This is a Joule Thief Flashlight. I simply modified a cheap 5 super bright LED flashlight that ran on 3 AA batteries by gutting it and using a simple Joule thief circuit which now runs on 1 AA battery. This circuit uses a 2N3904 transistor, a 1K resistor, 1" ferrite toroid, and 22 gauge bifilar wire windings. The components cost less than $3.00. This is easy to do and it is a fun project for everyone. This light will run on "dead" batteries. Most devices will stop operating when the 1.5 volt battery gets down to about 1.2 volts or so. This JT circuit will take that dead battery down to about .3 volts. This video was filmed using a "dead" battery. I get them for free from my friends and this way, I get to use all of the energy in the battery before we toss it out. The light will work for many, many hours on a dead battery. Way longer than using the 3 AA batteries (new) that came with this cheap light. For more information, go to Overunity.com in the Joule Thief topic. Free light from "dead" batteries. Thanks for watching.
Upload	:	17 November 2009
Uploader	:	mif
Durasi	:	3:41
Source	:	http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW3ZGjrL0Os

Download Now (3:41)

Ben S	:	will you sell me one?
Power Max	:	then again, i had a 10W led connected to it and no base resistor...
Pirate Labs	:	This video is old...I have moved on but, I have never had the 3904's get hot on me. To light 400 LEDs I needed to use other transistors.
Power Max	:	i would just scrap those 3904's and get quality 2n2222. when i was expementing with these circuits, i found they were best (as well as 2n4011) but the 3904 got warm and put out less light altogether. at least 30% less light
Pirate Labs	:	Thank you very much. Bill
poiiihy	:	THAT WAS A REALLY COOL FLASHLIGHT!!!
jmjpowerjoule	:	@Pirate88179 I also compared the newly purchased TIP-31 with the TIP3055. They are almost exactly the same, but I thought that the TIP-31 might have been just a smidgin brighter, not sure. Another reason that I used the TIP-31 is because the TIP-3055 can handle more power, so I saved it for a bigger use. "General Rule": Any NPN transistor that uses the TIP-220 case style, or similar, will be stronger and produce more output than the smaller sized transistors; ie 2N3904, 2N3555, 945C, etc. -Tks
Pirate Labs	:	@jmjpowerjoule Great information, thank you. I have some TIP 3055's lying about, I wonder how they would compare to the 2N3904's I have been using? I know they can handle a lot of power so I suppose they use more as well? If I had more time, I would try all of this stuff out. Bill
jmjpowerjoule	:	Today, I changed-out that used transistor with a brand new TIP-31. Findings: 1.) With one "AAA" battery; the Base-to-Emitter voltage sits right at about 1.05 VDC with a 1K Ohm resistor on the base. 2.) Everything stayed cool/cold to the touch, with no issues of ever-heating. 3.) The TIP-31 transistor takes up more room in the battery compartment of the flashlight. So I had to use electrical tape to prevent shorts. 4.) The light emitted was noticeably brighter. -I'd recommend this upgrade. Tks
jmjpowerjoule	:	@Pirate88179 The brightness of my newly modified flashlight is not quite as bright as it was with three batteries and without the joule thief circuit. I am however, using an ordinary transistor. -I am thinking of making the circuit stronger by replacing that transistor with a higher-output transistor and maybe just using a power-transistor. I'm thinking that a TIP-220 or a Darlington might be what I'll use. I cannot wait to see the results. Thanks Again.~
Pirate Labs	:	@jmjpowerjoule Excellent!! Thank you for your comments. This makes total sense. Bill
jmjpowerjoule	:	(Cont'd) To connect the emitter wire to the "On/Off" switch, you'll need to 'hack-it." -First, I used the diode test mode with my digital multimeter to test for continuity. After knowing that bit of info, I began taking the switch apart. I then mounted the emitter wire from the transistor into the switch. I had to use an extra long wire for that, so I could take the guts out without inadvertently disconnecting that wire from the switch. Now the light works without draining the battery. -Thanks
jmjpowerjoule	:	I went ahead and did this modification to one of my LED flashlights about three days ago now. The following day, I discovered that the battery was significantly drained. I then reviewed the joule thief schematic and what I did with the guts of my light. DISCOVERY: -The joule thief circuit was actuated from the moment I placed the single battery inside the battery slot. I needed to integrate the "On/Off" switch to my circuit. So I connected the wire from my transistor emitter to that switch.
Pirate Labs	:	@the1969info Yes, thank you, I am familiar with his work. He does some great stuff over there. I have made JT circuits with air cores but the frequency gets really high. I will look over his work again. Thanks for your comment. Bill
the1969info	:	Hi there, i love seeing the work of others with the joule thief circuit. I may have an answer for your one inch thorroid problem, Look up chilliqueen2007, his video super joule thief - rlc resonant circuit. It does not use a thorroid it winds a wire a few turns, also has an extra transistor. I am trying to duplicate it, but i'm not there yet. I hope it works for you.
RightQuiteNot	:	ReNu-IT "Pro" type to be exact.
Pirate Labs	:	Thank you. I have never heard of that device and will look it up. Bill
RightQuiteNot	:	You might want to try a "ReNu-IT" type alkaline battery "reconditioner". I bought one for less than $40 and have had incredible luck recharging regular alkaline batteries. (A lot of comments on the Internet suggest NOT using the "copper top" brand though.) I've got a big bag of batteries like yours that I've gathered from friends and have been able to restore a full charge. Good vid.
Pirate Labs	:	The real secret to the joule thief circuit is that yes, it does boost the volts, but at the expense of amps (Ohm's law) BUT, thanks to the pulses, it flashes the leds at about 20,000/sec or so and they appear to be on all the time to your eye, but they are actually off half the time too. Leds and florotubes can be lit using the right frequency with mostly volts and hardly any power. It is a really cool circuit. try some and see. Thanks, Bill
GUILDGOB	:	Boosting and better conservation of energy through the transistor/resist?

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